The chap behind the counter gives me a little number one to put on my table, 'Because you're the best customer we've had all day.' Must be the new hairdo. I pat it and smile, and ask if there's a newspaper kicking about.

The second barista man whips a paper I could easily have got myself from the shelf behind me and calls me 'mi'lady' as he hands it to me. I wait for the punchline.

Maybe I've been mistaken for a minor celebrity, or slipped into a sequel to that advert in which the lady with her toe stuck up a tap has to be rescued by a team of strip-tease firemen. Nope, I'm just popular today. I turn to head for my table. The man on the food prep counter winks at me as I pass.

By this time, of course, they could have fed me any old rubbish and I'd have been convinced of its gastronomic credentials. But fortunately, Roasters is on a mission, as its name suggests, to promote quality coffee. There are more than 10 different single origin beans, described with adjectival enthusiasm to rival any master wine taster ('fruit acidity of apricot and citrus rind with a rich aftertaste and thick, smooth body' anyone?); owner Barry Lawrenson has won the northern heat of the UK Barista Championships.

Me, I order an Americano, water and a tuna baked potato. A scandalous combination, I know, but I'm hungry and tired and in need of a quick fix. Quick it certainly is, and accompanied, as one has come to think only proper, by more mi'ladying from number two barista. The Americano tastes like a full strength espresso, but in a flavoursome way, rather than burnt, and the baked potato is tastefully accompanied by salad in a little pot. I could have had a ciabatta, or a mega salad, or a pastry. I could, if I'd wished, ordered at the takeaway window that gives onto the high street.

I wasn't keen on the pre-refurb Aberdeen Walk Roasters, which felt overcrowded and did nothing for me, aesthetically. Though the long, narrow Newborough branch must have been a difficult space to work, it is tastefully decorated in a womb-like deep red, with clean lines, comfy furniture and interesting bits and pieces on the walls. And it has excellent wheelchair access. We have the makings of a quality chain here.

A chorus of baristas bids me good day as I leave. Ah, I've got it: this is, 'If Carlsberg did women-only coffee bars'.

Overall: 4

Value for money: 3.5 for the food/4 for the coffee.